If you come to Sri Lanka, you’ll hear one story over and over: “Take the train through the hill country!” And yes, the Kandy to Ella train ride is famous for a reason. People call it one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world — and they aren’t wrong. Lush green tea plantations stretch as far as the eye can see, little waterfalls appear around every bend, rivers sparkle in the sunlight, and small villages peek out from between the hills.
But let me tell you, as someone who has ridden this train countless times, the way you do the journey makes all the difference.
Kandy to Ella — Too Crowded Now
I remember the first time I tried the classic Kandy to Ella route. It’s supposed to be this perfect, peaceful journey — the Instagram photo, hanging out the train doors, hair blowing in the wind, looking like a postcard. But when I actually went, oh man… it was packed. Tourists from every corner of the world, even locals taking selfies, all jostling for the best spots. Sometimes you barely get a chance to stick your head out the window.
The scenery is still amazing, no question. But the feeling of calm, the quiet magic of the hills, it’s kind of lost when you’re surrounded by so many people. I saw a few travelers get frustrated, tugging at each other for a spot by the door. I thought, “There’s no way this is relaxing.”
Ella to Kandy — The Local Secret
Now, here’s my tip — the way I do it myself: start in Ella and go to Kandy. Trust me, it’s much calmer. Fewer tourists start their journey in Ella, so the train is more peaceful. You can lean out the door, feel the wind on your face, and actually watch the world move by. The hills, the waterfalls, the tea plantations — all of it is still there, just without the crowd pressing in.
I remember sitting by the window on one trip, a little malu pan in my hand (you can get this in the cafeteria of the train at the Ella station) and a cup of coffee from Nescafé. I was watching small villages pass by, kids waving at the train, cows grazing near streams. It felt… simple, real, and magical at the same time. You can’t get that kind of calm experience when the carriage is packed.
What to Do on the Train
- Grab a snack and coffee: There’s a small cafeteria on board. A hot cup of coffee with a soft malu pan — sweet, warm, perfect — it makes the train feel like a moving café.
- Bring a light jacket: The hill country mornings are cool. Even in the sun, the wind can make your arms chill.
- Keep your camera ready: Seriously, the scenery changes every five minutes. A waterfall here, a tea plantation there, a kid waving hello from the side of the tracks.
- Arrive early if you can: The open door spots fill fast, even starting in Ella.
Experiences Along the Way
One of my favorite moments is when the train passes through small stations. People running to wave at the train, vendors selling fruits and snacks, and the smell of fresh tea from the plantations. On another trip, I was sipping coffee, nibbling my malu pan, and chatting quietly with a friendly local who had gotten on for just a few stops. He told me stories of the villages, the hills, and even the history of the old colonial railway.
You see, it’s not just the views — it’s the little slices of life you catch along the way. The sound of the train clattering along the tracks, the wind in your hair, the cows grazing, kids waving, women carrying baskets on their heads — all these moments make the ride truly unforgettable.
Yes, Kandy to Ella is famous, and yes, it’s beautiful. But from my experience, Ella to Kandy is now the smarter, more practical choice. You get more space, less stress, and the chance to actually enjoy the journey. Sit by the door, lean out, sip your coffee, eat your malu pan, and watch Sri Lanka slowly unfold before your eyes.
It’s not just a train ride. It’s an experience, a story, a moving piece of the country. And trust me, when you do it right, it’s something you’ll never forget.